Government Reged. No.: 72026/066/067  |  Tourism Reged. No.: 1139

Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition

  • 45 Days
  • Strenuous
  • 10 People

Destination: Nepal

Meals: Breakfast+Lunch+Dinner

Transportation: Car / Tourist Bus / Airplane

Accommodation: Tented Camp+Hotel

Max. Altitude: 8,157m

Activities: Trekking, Climbing, Cultural Tour

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The name Dhaulagiri is derived from the Sanskrit Dhavala meaning white, while giri means mountain. Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest and one of the most popular 8000m Peaks. It lies to the northwest of Pokhara in western Nepal and to south of the Tibetan and Nepali border.  A Swiss expedition team was able to make epic history on the summit of Mt. Dhaumagiri in 1960 via the northeastern ridge. Dhaulagiri is renowned as one of the most difficult mountains in the world.

Before the eight member Swiss expedition several expedition teams tried unsuccessfully to ascend Dhaulagiri. The climb followed a roundabout route around the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass and French Col, to approach the summit from the North-East Col. First Japanese in the 1970s summited, followed by Americans in 1973  and then by Italians in 1976 . Nowadays this expedition has become much more popular among the adventures in the world; many expedition teams climb this mountain each year. Dhaulagiri’s difficulty is created by five ridges which offer the possibility of a variety of ascents though six different routes. The majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, known as the so-called "normal route.” However, ascents have also been made from almost every direction. The normal climbing route is considered a reasonable climb with only short technical climbing sections and moderate avalanche danger. Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche killed seven members of a US expedition on the East Dhaulagiri Glacier. The tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls is crested by a stretch of thirty miles. Several pyramid-shaped peaks rise along the main crest. Four of the summits, numbered form east to west, rise above 25,000 feet. Being one of the world’s fourteen 8000+ meter high mountains, demands the best quality of technical equipment and a highly motivated and technically sound climbing team. It has atypical weather conditions which is very difficult to predict. The wind velocity can be tremendous in this area - from afternoon till dawn it is almost continuously windy. There are high passes to cross like French pass (5360 meters) and Dhampus pass (5258 meters) to reach base camp. Base camp is set at 4740 meters on the Chhonbardan glacier right below the rocky knob. After establishing base camp there four campsites will be prepared. The advanced base camp will be set up at 5,300 meters which is used for depositing equipment. Camp I will be established at 5900 meters, Camp II at 6400 meters, Camp III at 7200 meters and Camp IV at 7500 meters and onto the summit. Ascending from Camp I to Camp II requires stretches of steep climbing. Then the climb heads towards the west ridge with steep climbing to reach Camp III. The climb then moves to the East Ridge to reach Camp IV. Extreme care is to be exercised climbing here as strong wind is sure to be experienced whilst climbing. From there we will then push to attempt the summit from Camp IV.

The Mountain was charted by British surveyors from India in the early 1800’s and was mapped by one of the secret Indian evaluators. Locals revere the mountain as holy since it is known as place where gods and goddesses around. There is yet another interesting incident: Captain Emil Wick airdropped supplies to a US expedition from a Pilatus Porter aircraft. Among the delicacies he dropped were two bottles of wine and a live chicken. The Sherpas would not allow the chicken to be killed on the mountain, so it became the expedition pet! It was then carried, snow-blind and crippled by frostbitten feet, to Marpha, where it was finally ended up in the cooking pot.

Nepal Mother House Treks and Expedition organizes Dhaulagiri Expedition and takes care of required permits and paper work, transport loads, stock and camp setup, ropes, food, high altitude food, high quality tents, porters, professional climbing Sherpas, guides, porters, insurance, oxygen, satellite telephone, wake-talkies, as well as advice and assistance to ensure the safety and success of all expeditions. So ask yourself, ‘why not join our Nepal Expedition venture?’

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 01:Meeting upon arrival at Kathmandu International Airport with one of our representative, transfer to hotel.

Day 02:Preparing for Expedition

Day 03:Briefing in Ministry of Tourism

Day 04:Drive Beni and Darbang - Camping

Day 05:Darbang - Baskot village – Camping

Day 06:Baskot village - Bagar – Camping

Day 07:Bagar to Pina -Camping.

Day 08:Dovan - Pina (forest camp) Sallaghari –Camping

Day 09:Pina (forest) Italian Base Camp – Camping

Day 10: Italian B.C. - Dhaulagiri B.C.4740m.– Camping

Day 11:Dhaulagiri Climbing Period

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Day 40:Prepare return

Day 41:Dhaulagiri Base camp - Yak Khark - Camping

Day 42:Yak Khark – Marpha - Jomsom – Hotel

Day 43:Fly to Pokhara and Kathmandu

Day 44:Kathmandu

Day 45:Final Departure

Cost Include

  •  Airport transfers (both domestic and international).
  • Press conference arrangement.
  • 5 nights hotel accommodation at Hotel Yak and Yeti or equivalent with breakfast twin bed sharing basic.
  • Climbing permit fee form Mt. Dhaulagiri and Annapurna conservation area entry permit fee.
  • Food and Fuel during the trek and expedition period.
  • North Face or similar quality high altitude tent for higher camp.
  • Single tent for each member, staffs, and climbing Sherpa at the base camp.
  • 5/5 bottles of oxygen per member and guide with mask and regulator.
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper.
  • Porters/Yaks to and from base camp.
  • One high altitude Sherpa for one climber (1:1) who assist you whilst on climbing and summit attempt as well as carries food and gears to high camps.
  • Government liaison officer, his insurance, daily allowance, equipment allowance and flight fares.
  • Flight fare for member and staff (Jomsom - Pokhara).
  • Insurance, equipment allowance, wages and daily allowance for expedition staffs.
  • All camping equipments: sleeping tents, mattress, dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, store tent, table and chairs and other necessary kitchen utensils whilst on trekking and expedition.
  • Group climbing equipment such as necessary fixed rope, ice screws, ice bars etc.
  • First-aid kit bag, trekking map and duffel bag.
  • Solar panels at the base camp.
  • Restop toilet bag.
  • Satellite phone (charge for calls).
  • Walkie-Talkie for each staff and member.
  • Mountain cans cleaning at high camps.
  • Cargo transportation to supply the food and gear to Beni and back from Jomsom.
  • All ground transportation.
  • Necessary documentation and official paper work.
  • All applicable taxes as per the government rules and regulations.

Cost Exclude

  • Personal climbing gear.
  • Extra hotels in Kathmandu (after 5 nights).
  • Personal climbing insurance which covers travel, medical, accident, evacuation etc.
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Emergency rescue evacuation by helicopter.
  • Applicable permit fees and custom charges for using communication equipment, commercial filming, satellite phone, radio etc.
  • Carrying bonus + Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
  • Personal expenses such as laundry, telephone, e-mail, etc.
  • Bar and beverage bills..
  • Custom clearances in Kathmandu International airport.
  • Gratuities for staff.

Trip Note

The conditions stated in the itinerary are only for the visitors who prefer full package programme. At the same time, we can also serve you based on your preferences. The selection of itineraries and the staff depends on your needs and finances. We have many options for any partial visit as per your requests.

Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition - Trip Map

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Useful Info

Your safety is of paramount concern whilst traveling with us. Please note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, as this is adventure travel in remote mountain region, we cannot make guarantees! Weather conditions, health emergencies, and unexpected natural disasters etc. can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

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  • Post Box: 24741, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
  • +977 1 4410370, +977 1 4410287